Janggok High Sports Day, 2010

Thursday was school sports day at Janggok, which means that all classes are canceled. WOO HOO!! Love when that happens! While the 1st and 2nd graders gathered on the dusty dirt field to battle in a variety of athletic activities, the 3rd graders piled into buses on their way to a popular amusement park for the day.

I arrived and sat outside the building with Kate since it was her job to regulate the students going in and out of the school and I didn't like to see her alone. We were soon joined by two of my co-teachers, Hong Sik and Yeon Min, and they both seemed in great moods. I was especially happy to see Yeon Min smiling so much and laughing out loud since he usually has a very stoic demeanor. They both wanted to sit with me so Kate left me to them. The three of us talked about the differences between Korea and the USA in terms of sports days before Hong Sik told me he was desperately wanting some rice cakes, but they were up on the VIP stand where the principal and the vice principal were. All teachers fear the two bosses of the school and Hong Sik, though an older man, was no exception and refused to go on the hunt for the treats without another teacher with him. Yeon Min laughed at Hong Sik's reluctance to go alone and I immediately offered my services as escort. Hong Sik was very pleased and laughed at Yeon Min, who had also been reluctant to go and was now challenged by my offer.

So the three of us braved the VIP area in search of rice cakes and were able to avoid a prolonged conversation with the principal and vice principal since they were so absorbed in the sports events. After a few leisurely rice cakes and a cup of tea, Hong Sik and Yeon Min decided to take refuge in the coolness of the Teachers Lounge in the school while I went to hang out with the students in the stands.

All the classes were sitting in the stands watching their teammates and cheering loudly with banners and plastic horns. I wandered over to the 2nd grade side and took a few pictures. Some of the students wanted pictures with me. Then I made my way to the 1st grade side where I received a rock star welcome of screams and having my name called out over and over along with constant demands for pictures.

The 2nd grade classes by tradition choose their favorite soccer team and then order the official team jerseys with their own particular messages on the back. Since I can read Hangeul but cannot yet understand everything, I was very curious what each message meant. Some of the teachers helped me out and I found that many of the message said things like, "Handsome Boy" "I need a cute boyfriend" and others of that nature.

The 1st graders had to make up their own uniforms. One class had Batman t-shirts and capes while others had bright pink, blue, and yellow shirts with PJ bottoms. They also wore big bow ties or flowers in their hair. One class had little plastic shapes on springs that they wore on their heads. I wasn't sure what the yellow smiley things were until I asked the girls about it. They smiled and screamed out "Teacher, it's poo! See?!" and then they proceeded to act out the straining motion of producing said poo, complete with grunting and faces screwed up in determination. I laughed so hard I nearly cried. Koreans for some reason have a strange fascination with bodily functions. One of my favorite ways a Korean student will ask to go to the bathroom is, "Teacher, I make yellow water!! Yellow water!!"

I decided that the best thing I could do was head to my quiet, empty classroom to do some work while I had the spare time, which I sadly have in short supply these days. So I worked as much as I could amid the cheers and screams drifting in from the open windows in the halls, but eventually decided to go and sit with Kate outside.

We spent the rest of the time monitoring students together along with the art teacher who is a good friend of Kate's and whom I indirectly teach English. She listens very attentively to me during our lunchtimes or coffee runs and is able to pick up words and phrases I use constantly. So far her favorite is "I'll kill you!"

When the sports day was finished and the winners announced, every student and teacher made a mad dash to leave school as soon as possible. The students, being let out so many hours early, headed for the noraebong (singing rooms) and coffee shops, while the teachers all gathered together with the principal at a restaurant in the next town for dinner and drinks. It is common for such a large gathering to occur a few times during the semester and it's always interesting. I sat in a corner with Kate and a few other co-teachers eating octopus stew and Bo-sam (cold, roasted pork) while teachers around us broke open bottles of soju and beer. I envied them a lot. I like having someone to drink with but most of the Koreans I'm friends with don't drink. Suddenly, my co teacher Jong Kil came over red-faced with a glass and a bottle of beer.

"Christine! It's cheers time!"

"Yes, sir!"

The tradition is that they offer you the glass and pour for you. You have to drink it rather quickly and then pass them the same glass and you pour for them, and they drink. This can go on for several rounds. After a few drinks and funny conversation, Jong Kil went to another table to drink with another of his friends. Kate urged me to approach the principal's table and offer him and the vice principal some soju because it would make me look very good in their eyes. I was extremely hesitant to do so, but after a few shots of liquid courage I decided it would be good for my image.

I took an unopened bottle of soju and headed for the main table and offered to pour for the principal. He was extremely happy to see me make the offer and insisted I sit at his table. I poured him a shot and then he poured me a shot. Suddenly, the red-faced vice principal slammed down beside me grinning, tie askew, and I offered him some soju. We all sat taking rounds and talking about the students. Another co teacher of mine, Sang Soon, translated for me and the two school heads. I complimented each one on their handsomeness and then turned to the third in command of the school, the female supervisor, and insisted on her beauty and her sparkling eyes, which was no lie. Kate soon joined us and she led me away to another table full of teachers who were beckoning us to join them as well. I had good conversation with several of the social studies, history and P.E. teachers before a few of them left. I was really happy to see the music teacher among them. Since her classroom and mine are right next to each other we have started talking and hanging out when we have a spare moment. She has even started teaching me piano once a week and is surprised at the speed at which I learn. Me too actually...

The three leaders of the school left soon afterward and we all stood and bowed, though some had incredible trouble standing. HA! All the remaining teachers gathered at the head table where beer and soju flowed like a rain-fattened river. We cheered, took pictures, laughed and tried our best to communicate with each other. It was a wonderful time...The teachers at this school are so very welcoming and determined that no one should feel left out. There is an intense feeling of camaraderie among everyone and it's refreshing to feel a part of something so warm and friendly. In Korea, alcohol is seen as a necessary part of getting to know people since it's a great social lubricant, and I love these excursions outside of work where we can let loose a little and get to know each other better.

As dusk was threatening to take over the sky, we decided it was time to go. Though my main concern was finding a bathroom, I didn't really want to leave yet since I was having such a great time. Many of the teachers went off to another place for "round two" while others went home. Because I was riding with Kate I had to go home as well.

It was a great day. I got to hang out with the students, take pictures, have a few drinks with great people, and feel happy about my life.

Lantern Festival, 2010

This weekend two friends of mine from Daegu, Nick and Sarah, came up to stay with me and attend the yearly Lantern Festival held in Seoul the weekend before Buddha's Birthday, a national holiday. Friday night they arrived in Seoul and took the subway to my place. Because I had my Gumdo class that evening I was worried that I wouldn't make it to Ansan Station in time to pick them up so they wouldn't have to wait for me. But it all turned out well. We got dinner, delicious Sam-gep-ssa (thick, roasted Korean bacon) where we drank soju (basically Korean vodka, and it's freakin' strong!) before heading out to a bar and having a few more drinks. Nick and I got a bit toasty while Sarah remained sober as a bird. We ended up at a pool hall where I know the owner, and played a few rounds in an effort to teach Sarah the rules of 'Cutthroat'. We eventually got back to my place and talked until we fell asleep.

The next day we headed out to Seoul to meet our friend Christine, but she was terribly late having something to do with a KTX train...So we ran to Yongsan very quickly to peruse the electronics market for an external hard drive for me, and a Cyclo DS for me and Nick. Nick and I had some trouble with the DS salesman. He spoke English but not well enough for us to communicate effectively. We bought some TT DS cards and left, meeting Christine at Yongsan station afterwards.

From there we headed to the Jongno area to eat a much needed lunch of Vietnamese noodles. While at the restaurant Nick and I discovered that our TT DS purchase was not complete and decided to head back to Yongsan while Christine and Sarah went to the Lantern Festival ahead of us. In Yongsan we had no luck communicating with the salesman, but we were able to get our money back. We were contacted by Nick's Canadian-Korean friend, Karen, and ran madly back to Jongno to meet her before running to catch the end of the festival.

The festival was held at Jogyesa Temple, quite near the Insadong/Jongno areas. People were sitting on the steps outside of the main gate, ornate and richly colored. In the courtyard of the temple, the bell tower, and the monks' residence halls is a large tree, thick and ever reaching upwards as if in an effort to equal that of its man-sculpted brothers around it. Strung up everywhere in a blanket of colored air were bright paper lanterns all in rows, decorated with pictures of Buddha and Hangeul script while the written prayers of the devout hung beneath each one twirling in the wind. It was a beautiful sight, to say the least.

Nick, Karen and I found Sarah and Christine finishing up their own paper lanterns in the shape of lotus flowers. Unfortunately, Nick and I's little Yongsan adventure took too long and we were too late to join in the lantern making. But we all walked around the courtyard and admired the lanterns and the gorgeous inside of the temple. Since so many worshipers were practicing their faith within, we decided not to enter the temple itself out of respect. Nick, filled with the affects of Spring, soon caught sight of several attractive women, in particular a young blonde whose relationship to her male companion was irritatingly ambiguous.

We soon found that a parade was underway just outside of the Temple gates. The parade was filled with all kinds of people dressed in a multitude of traditional attire and a plethora of traditional musicians and paper floats. The parade was over rather quickly so since I was the Korea veteran of all five of us I suggested a quick trip to Insadong which is rite of passage for any foreigner here. Once there it was a short walk down the busy Insadong neighborhood and a few pieces of street food later found us outside the area with nothing to do. Christine suggested dinner in Itaewon, another foreigner must.

Itaewon is regarded as THE foreigner hangout area and has an amazing amount of shops, restaurants and bars catering to such clientele. It's the place to get real Indian food, Arabian cuisine, or Western pub fare before settling down with a few beers from all parts of the Western World. We all agreed on Tex-Mex since it's so rare and settled in at Panchos with a few tequila drinks to comfort us against the slightly overpriced Mexican dishes. After dinner I took everyone to the Rocky Mountain Tavern, a Canadian pub just up the street from Panchos that I've been to a few times and whose beer selection I enjoyed. Since Nick is a Vancouver native and Karen is a Vancouver import I figured they would like a taste of home.

All of us being tired and the pub being packed, we stayed for only one drink before heading home. We said goodbye to Karen and Christine before boarding our subway at Seoul Station. On the hour long subway ride Nick found himself standing next to an absolutely ravishing Korean woman. After a few minutes of prolonged eye contact, Nick got her to talk and we all spent the rest of the time in conversation.

Finally reached Ansan Station, but because I didn't trust the bus (long story) Nick, Sarah and I decided to take a taxi to my place. We were soon home and spent the rest of the night talking and laughing. It was a good visit by good friends and I hope to have one like it soon!

New Hobby...Haidong Gumdo!

I've been thinking about it for a while now. I've been curious for years but due to the lack of available opportunity I never pursued it. Now that I have the time I've decided to take up a rather physical hobby called Haidong Gumdo, or Korean sword fighting. It's similar to Japanese Kendo in that it uses a curved sword, but the Korean sword is a wider blade and the fighting focuses more on battle tactics and multiple enemy attacks rather than one on one.

I asked my co-teacher Kate to help me sign up with a local school, and after a week and a half she was able to help me out. So on Monday we went to the school and met with the master of the school, who surprisingly turned out to be a young woman about my age. She was very amiable and seemed quite excited to have me as her student. We agreed to start my training on Thursday.

So Thursday rolled around and I arrived 20 minutes early in an effort to impress upon my new master my desire to learn. She was not there (she was driving students home) so I waited alongside another student in the office. A few younger students arrived and were completely surprised to see a waegookin (foreigner) in their Dojang (school). One of the boys, dressed in a bright green shirt and possessing a cute slightly chubby physique, was most curious about me. My master arrived and she began fitting me out in my uniform, the pants of which turned out to be too long so she sent them out to be hemmed. While I waited for my uniform I caught out of the corner of my eye little Green Shirt taking a picture of me with his camera phone. So I turned, made the peace sign and smiled for him. He smiled and ran away quite pleased with himself.

I was assigned a wooden practice sword and the lesson began. We all stood at attention with our swords on the floor next to us and bowed first the Korean flag and then to our master. The hand gestures of the bow are very different. You put your right hand in front of your chest vertically and your left hand horizontal, palm down, at your waist before bowing. Then we did tons of stretching exercises. I had a difficult time with the jump rope because the rope was too short but I pushed myself on anyway. After exercises, my master had me sit at the back and watch her give out commands as the students followed. When their formal instruction was over, they all practiced individually their own forms they were working on (they were all different belt levels) while our master taught me the parts of the sword, one of the stances and some basic slashing movements. These I practiced for a long time though I kept my eye on some of the more advanced students to try and memorize more movements. I hate being a white belt...I'm back at square one, but I don't plan on being at this level for very long!!

After our practice we did more exercises where we broke up into two teams. When little Green Shirt saw which team I was doing to, he immediately jumped over next to me and smiled. He also showed me where to hang my wooden sword and tries to help me understand commands. Once in our teams we lined up facing each other and the first two opposing members did rock, paper, scissors to see which team would do the decided exercise. It was great fun and I felt like a part of the group as we cheered and grumbled after winning or losing. What I enjoyed was that my master joined and did the exercises too. She's very involved in everything we do rather than just shouting commands at us.

After the lesson my master asked me if I would stay for the next class. I was surprised but agreed. The next class was also the last of the day and there was only one student, a young girl name Yuri. We exercised and then practiced the sword a bit. Afterward my teacher told me we were going to work on concentration. She rolled out a mat, placed a stand in the middle, and lit a single candle before having us sit down. Yuri went first, holding her sword above the flame, then making a striking motion without touching the candle in an effort to extinguish the flame. It took her a few tries but she managed it. Then it was my turn. I held my sword above the candle, reached back and thrust my blade forward with a loud yell.

The flame remained.

So I tried twice more and was able to extinguish it. Then we used our fists. It took the other girl several tries to do it. I did it in one go, so I was quite proud of myself!!

I'm really looking forward to where this will take me physically and mentally. It's really nice to feel athletic again, and it's also good stress release after work. But that's another story...