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| Me and a colleague (aka 'Sexy Guy') |
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| A typical group night out |
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| Drinking unites the generations |
First, what is soju? Soju is a clear liquor made from rice that has a very high alcohol content. Soju is THE drink in Korea. It comes in a small green bottle, about the size of a 20 oz coke bottle, and sells for insanely cheap at any convenience store (about 1,200 won/1$ US) or super market (900won/75cents US). If you buy it at a restaurant to accompany your meal then it can cost double or so (around 3,000-4,000 won/3-4$). The taste is extremely bitter and tartly alcoholic. It can be mixed, often with Chilsung Cider (a Sprite-like soft drink). Several foreigners I know get pretty creative, using it in iced tea and even jello shots.
How do you drink it? It is usually drunk from a shot glass, but it is not really appropriate to shoot the whole thing back at once, unless the Koreans cry out, "One shot!". Then it's ok.
How do I offer and receive soju? Korea is a hierarchical society and knowing your place in it is the first step towards success. Age is of utmost importance. Even the difference of one year can put you lower or higher than another. Typically, you serve with two hands on the bottle (or you may use one hand with your other hand touching your serving arm) and pour for the other person. They will then take the bottle from you and serve you in similar form. It is appropriate to hold your glass with two hands when receiving. It is important that you don't pour for yourself because you might be seen as an alcoholic and a bit selfish. Koreans usually keep an eye on each others drinks and are sure to fill your glass for you. I recommend doing the same, that way everyone can have their drinks refilled at the same time. By doing this you maintain the spirit of community that is so important to the Koreans. Doing things together, even drinking, is important for social cohesion. It also makes you look really good as foreigner. Note also that if you are clearly older than your drinking partner it is ok for you to receive and serve with only one hand. For the sake of safety, I recommend using two at first until you get to know your drinking partner on a more intimate level. *Remember also that sometimes you will see a younger Korean turn slightly away from the group and drink from the side. This is a polite way of drinking in front of elders and I recommend trying it. Doing so will impress those in your party. Don't worry, you won't have to do it every time. Just watch for prompts from those around you.*
What is a Poktanju (폭탄주)? This drink is what we would call a "boiler maker". Simply put, you take a shot glass full of soju and drop it into a glass of beer and chug the sucker back. Doing this will put you in awed standing with your Korean drinking buddies and definately boost your reputation. Though Koreans are serious workers, they are also serious drinkers and the ability to drink and have a roaring good time is essential to most Korean friendships, especially among the older generation. Word of caution: doing only one of these is enough to have the desired effect. More than this and you're libel to have trouble functioning the next day.
What is Somek (소맥)? Somek is a glass of beer (막주) with a shot of soju in it. This is drunk just like a regular glass of beer (ie. You don't shoot it back!). With this combination, just drink it slowly and enjoy. If you chug it you will get drunk far more quickly than you intended and the results ain't pretty! Even if you drink it slowly you can get drunk quick. It seems innocent enough, but this drink is NOT for the faint of alcohol. You know that whole "Liquor before beer" advice? The Koreans haven't heard of it... *Also, watch those sly Koreans. They love to sneak in a bit more soju than you're expecting when your back is turned!*
What kinds of beer does Korea offer? Unfortunately, Korea is a not the best place in the world if you are a picky about your beer. If you're desperate for world beer the supermarket is your best option. There is always a large alcohol section and you can buy several world brands in singles. Sometimes you can find a sixer of Heineken or even Budweiser, but it's a bit pricey. However, Korea does offer about 5 domestic brands: Cass, Hite, OB Blue, Max, and Black Stout. Cass and Hite are the most popular and they are your basic lagers. OB Blue and Max tend to be a little more malty in flavor and in my opinion taste a little better. Black Stout, as you're probably guessed, is a stout, and while this will probably tide you over until you return to your native country don't make the mistake of expecting an award winning stout. It is extremely watery and has a hint of sweetness that is overdone. The one truly awesome thing about Korean beer is the price. It is so cheap it's insane. At the supermarket you can purchase a 1.6 liter bottle of any of the above mentioned for around 3,500 won (2.75$ US) and about 5,200 won (4$ US) at any 24 hour store. But I must warn you that if you choose to drink at a bar the price of everything, as with everywhere else, goes up to astronomical proportions. However, you can get a draft beer for 2,500won (1.75$ US) in almost every bar. Oh, and another thing. Korea is full of 24 stores and you'll never run out of places to buy alcohol if you're having a night out.
What other kinds of alcohol do they have? There's makoli which is Korean rice wine. It is milky white and has a similar consistency. Shake it up gently before you drink because it tends to settle at the bottom of the bottle. It's a bit on the sweet side but still has that twang of alcohol flavor. There are several other "wines" that Korea makes from rice but they are not really wine. They are more akin to liquor. They also make wine-liquor from fruits such as raspberries (delicious!!!) and small green plums called Mae-shil (매실) which is truly awesome. These range in price so shop around and consider your options.
What is Soju English? All Koreans get educated in English language while in school. Until recently it had not been very comprehensive, made up mostly of learning textbook phrases, basic grammar, and a few essential vocabulary words. Most Koreans you come into contact with will not know much English. But those who do are usually not confident in the speaking skills, because the education system has focused for so long on grammar. Oh, they can READ English very well, even write it enough to be understood. But speaking remains a true difficulty so they will be reluctant to speak to you. However, once you get a little liquid courage into them the Koreans start to speak as much English as they know and with ease. Because their inhibitions are dropped they turn out to speak far better than they realized. However, don't be surprised the next day if the party animal who wouldn't shut up last night over a few bottles of soju and beer turns back into the shy person giving you a quick hello while scurrying away. That's just Soju English!
Why is drinking so important in Korean culture? Korean society has a very distinct hierarchy and strict social code. There are certain ways to greet, speak, and interact with your elders, your juniors, and your equals. Any deviation is considered a terrible affront and is not easily forgiven. This is true in everyday life and especially in business and the workplace. Foreigners are usually given a little leeway, but after you have been here for a few months you are expected to conform. If you do not, you lose the respect of those around you and your time in Korea will be made that much more difficult. But that's another story... So, drinking! Because the social standard is so strict interactions between people can be stiff and uncomfortable. It's difficult to get to know someone in that kind of environment, and Koreans know that very well. Drinking is seen as a way to get to know another person outside of that confining situation. It's a social lubricant that can take most of the uneasiness of formality out of the general social equation. Of course, you must remain somewhat polite while drinking (ie. remember how to pour and receive!!) but other than that Koreans really let their hair down. They are very physically affectionate people (between the same sex only!) and they only get more so when drinking. This is also seen as acceptance and friendly affection. If a Korean invites you to drink it is because they want to get to know you better. Take the offer and have a good time!
How do you pay? Generally, the elders are supposed to pay because it is their social duty to take care of the younger people. In return, the younger people make sure that the elders' drinks are filled and cook the food. It also depends on who does the asking out. If a Korean asks you to join him/her for dinner and/or drinks, then he/she is expected to pay. If you are the one doing the asking out then you are expected to take care of the bill. But, as times change, more and more people are going dutch, especially when it comes to foreigners. It has been my personal experience to either pay or be paid for because the vast majority of my friends are Koreans and not foreigners. And even though these rules are set up, you will still see Koreans fighting over who pays the bill. This is a constant battle between me and my Korean friends. This is considered polite in its way, but be prepared for the consequences of winning the argument...
Ok, so that concludes this part of Korean drinking. Should anything else come to my attention I'll be sure to add it. So go forth, drink, be merry, and beware of the soju!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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