Thursday, October 28, 2010

A Nomad's Thoughts

It's one of my biggest fears...to be forgotten by friends and family in the old places one use to know so well.

I think it's the fear of every person who cannot be satisfied living in one place, or those who know that they can never go home again permanently.

I find myself at 28 exactly where I want to be for the moment. So far, my life has been interesting, if only to myself. I have lived it according to what I've wanted, and I have no regrets. I've gotten to travel more than most people do in a lifetime. I've seen exotic places, strange cultures and even stranger people that have slowly molded me into a different person than I was even just a few years ago.

All things and all people change. That's no surprise. But it's in the way they change and how it came about that is the interesting part, and the most significant. Some people I used to know have gotten married, become mothers and fathers and now deal will all the triumphs and heartaches of family life. Others have fallen by the wayside in dead end jobs, still in school, and lamenting about how their life has not even begun and yet is slipping quickly away. Some are single mothers, and some are living the single life. They have cars, bills, houses, movie nights, family reunions, etc.

I have none of these.

All my life I have felt more like a breeze than a well rooted tree, more a tool than a completed masterpiece. I've had several people complain that I tend to blow into people's lives and then soon go off again. They would rather I stay longer, if not forever. But, as much as I have loved those in my life, it is not in me to linger.

By the time I was 9 years old I had lived in 13 residences in 4 different states that spanned from the East to West coasts of the USA thanks to my father being in the Air Force. I've traveled around most of the USA, with stops in Canada and Mexico, during three summers with my grandfather and aunt who taught me to see the world outside of my own state and country. I was a born nomad.

I suffered greatly in university. I was bored with my studies and saw them as a necessary impediment to getting out in to the world. I endured for 5 years and countless mind numbing jobs. I wanted my life to start, the life I wanted. I couldn't see myself living in Columbia or South Carolina for the rest of my life. I felt as trapped as one could feel. When I finally made it out, I realized that I couldn't see myself living in the USA either...

I've bummed around France and London, UK for a month, seen Mayan ruins in Belize and the seas and islands of the Caribbean. I've wandered in the sands of the Sahara Desert in Mauritania, West Africa, and currently reside in South Korea, the Land of the Morning Calm. I have fallen deeply in love with my present location but even now, after 2 1/2 years I feel the pull of the open road. I have discovered that I am never so happy as when I am on my way to some new location. Airports are my favorite places to be. I love to go to them even when I don't have a flight. I enjoy sitting in the airport bar or cafe just to feel the sense of excitement of travel around me, even if I'm the only one feeling it as hurried passengers rush by.

I speak smatterings of five different languages.

I suffer from extreme culture shock when I enter my native country.

I crave after the next adventure and thrive on incredible new cultures.

I see my life as an endless wandering. Settling is boring.

The only downside to all of this is that one loses touch with people that meant something back from the place they came from. Some people call that 'home'. For me it doesn't feel right to call South Carolina home. I really only keep in touch with only a few friends in the USA. The rest have either forgotten me or turned against me, seeing my leaving as an abandonment of them or they have simply lost interest in the friendship for their own secret reasons.

As for my extended family, the three who meant the most to me are dead, the last one have passed away less than a year ago. As for cousins and my remaining grandparents, we are not close. They have their own families and concerns and since I have always made different choices than the rest it makes sense. So I really have no real sense of family unity. I miss my brother terribly but he and I have our own lives, and when we do come together it's as if we were never separated.

I would love to find a place that seemed to fit me, some place I could attach the label 'home' to. So far I've had many homes I've loved but none that felt permanent, and I really fear that one of two things will happen; 1) I'll never find a place to call home, or 2) I'll find myself stuck in a place I hate with no way to escape.

Anyway...who knows what will happen...Just don't know how to satisfy my restlessness.

Monday, September 27, 2010

The Summer and Japan

It has been awhile since I've written anything down. That's really a shame because I'll probably forget a lot of things from the last 4 months. I've had a hell of a lot go on in the last quarter year. Said good bye to a co teacher, Park Yeon Min, a man whom I had written about in a few earlier blogs. He didn't like the way the school was run and all the extra work he had to do. So he left at the end of the Spring semester. For five glorious weeks we had our summer vacation. I had to work for three of those weeks working only about 3 1/2 hours a day and teaching a special course in Theatre and Drama, which I authored and instructed alone.

What was really wonderful about that class is that it was so small (only 14 girls) when I'm used to teaching 40 plus students at a time. Because of the small size I was able to get very close to several of them, and they really enjoyed my class. They told my co teacher Kate that what they really loved was the closeness to me and the atmosphere I created in the classroom. It was close, friendly, kind, and fun, which their classes with Korean teachers as a general rule are not. That meant a lot. On the last day of Summer Class all of the girls moaned and groaned about how they didn't want the class to end, all of them fighting each other to hug me goodbye and a few clinging on for dear life. One girl, Kyoung Suh, told me she felt empty. She has become one of my favorite students and she hugs me every time she sees me. Several of them have become email buddies of mine.

The Summer Class was one of the most rewarding teaching experiences I've ever had, both because I was able to teach something I loved and because I was able to grow much closer to my students. And, I admit, it was really fun to perform a bit of Shakespeare for them, even though they didn't understand a word I said. But I told them beforehand what the speech was about and they understood the emotion well enough to enjoy it. I was so proud of them when they finished their final project, which was to act out a movie monologue of their choice. Kyoung Suh, playing Edward Cullen, was voted the best actress and best speaker and she certainly deserved it!! They were so scared to speak in English in front of everybody (not to mention try to act!) but they did their best, and I strictly forbade anyone to make fun of a fellow student. If there's one thing I cannot tolerate it's bullying. But they were great about keeping to my rule.

Summer also brought on two weeks of vacation! At first I had seriously considered going to India with my friend Christine. I was really excited about that since for years I've been wanting to go to India. And going with a good friend of mine was an even nicer draw! However, because our schedules didn't coincide, India was a no go. So I figured I'd just stay in Korea and bum around here a bit, until my friend Nick suggested we go to Japan together. I jumped at the chance!

Unfortunately, before jumping I didn't consider the landing. Nick and I divided up the booking responsibilities: I'd book the ferry, he'd book the hostels. Due to some credit card problems, Nick was unable to do any booking and he left it all to me. We briefly talked about what nights we wanted to stay in what cities, but he left the planning mostly up to me. When I wanted to make a change in nights, I called Nick to check if it was ok and he said, "I don't care. I like to go with the flow. Just do whatever you want". That should have been my first clue...

We traveled around Japan for 7 days, seeing Hiroshima, Kyoto, Nara, and Osaka, before heading back to Fukuoka to take the ferry back to Busan.

Hiroshima was an emotionally draining experience. It's not something that can be described or even prepared for. It just hits you and you can't help but be numbed by it. I remember when we crossed the bridge over to the Peace Park and I saw the A-bomb Dome for the first time. I had seen it in countless pictures in countless books. I had studied the history of the dropping of the bomb. I had heard stories from my grandfather about the war in the Pacific. This was one of the places I had set aside in my mind to see before I die.

And there it was...skeletal and broken against a picture perfect skyline of modern Hiroshima, a monument to monstrous chaos. My first thought was indescribable. I simply caught my breath and kept silent. My second thought was of my grandfather, how he would have loved to have seen such an important piece of history, a history he had been a part of. I remembered his face when I had told him of Normandy and all the things I saw from D-Day on Omaha Beach, putting a stone from that sacred place into his trembling hands, crying excited tears. To my regret, I would never be able to share this with him, and his memory haunted me throughout my day in Hiroshima.

Kyoto was an amazing city with tons to see; temples, shrines, lovely parks, palaces,etc. It's a city that alone requires at least a week to explore and we got a great experience out of it. Nick and I really enjoyed the gorgeous bamboo forest in the northwestern part of the city, and the garden up above it in the hills. The Golden Pavilion was a bit of a let down, but still worth seeing. It's just not worth spending all that much time there. We got to see the Fushimi Inari Shrine that was featured briefly in a memorable scene from the film "Memoirs of a Geisha". And we took a brief and ill timed trip to Gion, the Geisha district. The brief stop over to Nara was great and totally worth it!! Got to see the world's biggest wooden building which housed the world's biggest enclosed Buddha statue. The statue itself dated back 800 years or so. And I got to see Nick get chased by deer...

Osaka was boring, but in fairness to the city we only got there in time to experience a bit of the nightlife, which for me was not all that interesting anyway. Since Nick was in the mood to party I let him go off on his own. I figured he'd have no problem with that, since he wouldn't have a female trailing after him for Japanese women to mistake as his girlfriend. Even though our hostel was only two subway stops away, I was still nervous about getting back. I had trouble navigating the Japanese rail system, and since only a few things were written in English, that just made it worse. I waited for about30 minutes for a train and nearly took the wrong one several times. I did a lot of hopping on and off until I finally figured it out. I made it back to the hostel no problem and spent the night sleeping uneasily among a group of people from Portugal, I think...

Got confused on the Jrail lines trying to get back to Fukuoka (Hakata Station), but eventually got the right train. Going back between Osaka to Kyoto and back to Osaka was involved, as well as a mad dash to catch our train within the five minute allotment we were given...How we did that I still don't know. I found myself sitting next to another Canadian and had a very nice chat with him until he got off at Hiroshima. It was nice to bitch about the state of American politics to someone. HA!

Nick and I were supposed to go to Nagano as well, but due to a fuck up with our Jrail passes we were unable to. So we headed back to Fukuoka a day early. We had no reservations so at my suggestion and Nick's delight we decided to camp out on a nearby island. That turned out to be a disaster involving us hiking 1 1/2-2 kilometers up a mountainside with night falling, unable to find the beach. Plus, we were hungry, tired, and I was sick with a dreadful cold I'd caught in Kyoto. After assessing our situation we went back to the mainland and found a hotel near Hakata Station. The next day after doing some fruitless shopping, Nick and I decided we had had enough of Japan and just wanted to go home. We took an early ferry and went home.

A lot of things happened on the trip that were unsatisfactory to me, but I will not list them here. For me, Japan was a mixed bag. I'm glad I went, but I don't plan on EVER going back again.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Janggok High Sports Day, 2010

Thursday was school sports day at Janggok, which means that all classes are canceled. WOO HOO!! Love when that happens! While the 1st and 2nd graders gathered on the dusty dirt field to battle in a variety of athletic activities, the 3rd graders piled into buses on their way to a popular amusement park for the day.

I arrived and sat outside the building with Kate since it was her job to regulate the students going in and out of the school and I didn't like to see her alone. We were soon joined by two of my co-teachers, Hong Sik and Yeon Min, and they both seemed in great moods. I was especially happy to see Yeon Min smiling so much and laughing out loud since he usually has a very stoic demeanor. They both wanted to sit with me so Kate left me to them. The three of us talked about the differences between Korea and the USA in terms of sports days before Hong Sik told me he was desperately wanting some rice cakes, but they were up on the VIP stand where the principal and the vice principal were. All teachers fear the two bosses of the school and Hong Sik, though an older man, was no exception and refused to go on the hunt for the treats without another teacher with him. Yeon Min laughed at Hong Sik's reluctance to go alone and I immediately offered my services as escort. Hong Sik was very pleased and laughed at Yeon Min, who had also been reluctant to go and was now challenged by my offer.

So the three of us braved the VIP area in search of rice cakes and were able to avoid a prolonged conversation with the principal and vice principal since they were so absorbed in the sports events. After a few leisurely rice cakes and a cup of tea, Hong Sik and Yeon Min decided to take refuge in the coolness of the Teachers Lounge in the school while I went to hang out with the students in the stands.

All the classes were sitting in the stands watching their teammates and cheering loudly with banners and plastic horns. I wandered over to the 2nd grade side and took a few pictures. Some of the students wanted pictures with me. Then I made my way to the 1st grade side where I received a rock star welcome of screams and having my name called out over and over along with constant demands for pictures.

The 2nd grade classes by tradition choose their favorite soccer team and then order the official team jerseys with their own particular messages on the back. Since I can read Hangeul but cannot yet understand everything, I was very curious what each message meant. Some of the teachers helped me out and I found that many of the message said things like, "Handsome Boy" "I need a cute boyfriend" and others of that nature.

The 1st graders had to make up their own uniforms. One class had Batman t-shirts and capes while others had bright pink, blue, and yellow shirts with PJ bottoms. They also wore big bow ties or flowers in their hair. One class had little plastic shapes on springs that they wore on their heads. I wasn't sure what the yellow smiley things were until I asked the girls about it. They smiled and screamed out "Teacher, it's poo! See?!" and then they proceeded to act out the straining motion of producing said poo, complete with grunting and faces screwed up in determination. I laughed so hard I nearly cried. Koreans for some reason have a strange fascination with bodily functions. One of my favorite ways a Korean student will ask to go to the bathroom is, "Teacher, I make yellow water!! Yellow water!!"

I decided that the best thing I could do was head to my quiet, empty classroom to do some work while I had the spare time, which I sadly have in short supply these days. So I worked as much as I could amid the cheers and screams drifting in from the open windows in the halls, but eventually decided to go and sit with Kate outside.

We spent the rest of the time monitoring students together along with the art teacher who is a good friend of Kate's and whom I indirectly teach English. She listens very attentively to me during our lunchtimes or coffee runs and is able to pick up words and phrases I use constantly. So far her favorite is "I'll kill you!"

When the sports day was finished and the winners announced, every student and teacher made a mad dash to leave school as soon as possible. The students, being let out so many hours early, headed for the noraebong (singing rooms) and coffee shops, while the teachers all gathered together with the principal at a restaurant in the next town for dinner and drinks. It is common for such a large gathering to occur a few times during the semester and it's always interesting. I sat in a corner with Kate and a few other co-teachers eating octopus stew and Bo-sam (cold, roasted pork) while teachers around us broke open bottles of soju and beer. I envied them a lot. I like having someone to drink with but most of the Koreans I'm friends with don't drink. Suddenly, my co teacher Jong Kil came over red-faced with a glass and a bottle of beer.

"Christine! It's cheers time!"

"Yes, sir!"

The tradition is that they offer you the glass and pour for you. You have to drink it rather quickly and then pass them the same glass and you pour for them, and they drink. This can go on for several rounds. After a few drinks and funny conversation, Jong Kil went to another table to drink with another of his friends. Kate urged me to approach the principal's table and offer him and the vice principal some soju because it would make me look very good in their eyes. I was extremely hesitant to do so, but after a few shots of liquid courage I decided it would be good for my image.

I took an unopened bottle of soju and headed for the main table and offered to pour for the principal. He was extremely happy to see me make the offer and insisted I sit at his table. I poured him a shot and then he poured me a shot. Suddenly, the red-faced vice principal slammed down beside me grinning, tie askew, and I offered him some soju. We all sat taking rounds and talking about the students. Another co teacher of mine, Sang Soon, translated for me and the two school heads. I complimented each one on their handsomeness and then turned to the third in command of the school, the female supervisor, and insisted on her beauty and her sparkling eyes, which was no lie. Kate soon joined us and she led me away to another table full of teachers who were beckoning us to join them as well. I had good conversation with several of the social studies, history and P.E. teachers before a few of them left. I was really happy to see the music teacher among them. Since her classroom and mine are right next to each other we have started talking and hanging out when we have a spare moment. She has even started teaching me piano once a week and is surprised at the speed at which I learn. Me too actually...

The three leaders of the school left soon afterward and we all stood and bowed, though some had incredible trouble standing. HA! All the remaining teachers gathered at the head table where beer and soju flowed like a rain-fattened river. We cheered, took pictures, laughed and tried our best to communicate with each other. It was a wonderful time...The teachers at this school are so very welcoming and determined that no one should feel left out. There is an intense feeling of camaraderie among everyone and it's refreshing to feel a part of something so warm and friendly. In Korea, alcohol is seen as a necessary part of getting to know people since it's a great social lubricant, and I love these excursions outside of work where we can let loose a little and get to know each other better.

As dusk was threatening to take over the sky, we decided it was time to go. Though my main concern was finding a bathroom, I didn't really want to leave yet since I was having such a great time. Many of the teachers went off to another place for "round two" while others went home. Because I was riding with Kate I had to go home as well.

It was a great day. I got to hang out with the students, take pictures, have a few drinks with great people, and feel happy about my life.

Sunday, May 16, 2010

Lantern Festival, 2010

This weekend two friends of mine from Daegu, Nick and Sarah, came up to stay with me and attend the yearly Lantern Festival held in Seoul the weekend before Buddha's Birthday, a national holiday. Friday night they arrived in Seoul and took the subway to my place. Because I had my Gumdo class that evening I was worried that I wouldn't make it to Ansan Station in time to pick them up so they wouldn't have to wait for me. But it all turned out well. We got dinner, delicious Sam-gep-ssa (thick, roasted Korean bacon) where we drank soju (basically Korean vodka, and it's freakin' strong!) before heading out to a bar and having a few more drinks. Nick and I got a bit toasty while Sarah remained sober as a bird. We ended up at a pool hall where I know the owner, and played a few rounds in an effort to teach Sarah the rules of 'Cutthroat'. We eventually got back to my place and talked until we fell asleep.

The next day we headed out to Seoul to meet our friend Christine, but she was terribly late having something to do with a KTX train...So we ran to Yongsan very quickly to peruse the electronics market for an external hard drive for me, and a Cyclo DS for me and Nick. Nick and I
had some trouble with the DS salesman. He spoke English but not well enough for us to communicate effectively. We bought some TT DS cards and left, meeting Christine at Yongsan station afterwards.

From there we headed to the Jongno area to eat a much needed lunch of Vietnamese noodles. Wh
ile at the restaurant Nick and I discovered that our TT DS purchase was not complete and decided to head back to Yongsan while Christine and Sarah went to the Lantern Festival ahead of us. In Yongsan we had no luck communicating with the salesman, but we were able to get our money back. We were contacted by Nick's Canadian-Korean friend, Karen, and ran madly back to Jongno to meet her before running to catch the end of the festival.

The festival was held at Jogyesa Temple, quite near the Insadong/Jongno areas. People were sitting on the steps outside of the main gate, ornate and richly colored. In the courtyard of the temple, the bell tower, and the monks' residence halls is a large tree, thick and ever reaching upwards as if in an effort to equal that of its man-sculpted brothers around it. Strung up everywhere in a blanket of colored air were bright paper lanterns all in rows, decorated with pictures of Buddha and Hangeul script while the written prayers of the devout hung beneath each one twirling in the wind. It was a beautiful sight, to say the least.

Nick, Karen and I found Sarah and Christine finishing up their own paper lanterns in the shape of lotus flowers. Unfortunately, Nick and I's little Yongsan adventure took too long and we were too late to join in the
lantern making. But we all walked around the courtyard and admired the lanterns and the gorgeous inside of the temple. Since so many worshipers were practicing their faith within, we decided not to enter the temple itself out of respect. Nick, filled with the affects of Spring, soon caught sight of several attractive women, in particular a young blonde whose relationship to her male companion was irritatingly ambiguous.

We soon found that a parade was underway just outside of the Temple gates. The parade was filled with all kinds of people dressed in a multitude of traditional attire and a plethora of traditional musicians and pap
er floats. The parade was over rather quickly so since I was the Korea veteran of all five of us I suggested a quick trip to Insadong which is rite of passage for any foreigner here. Once there it was a short walk down the busy Insadong neighborhood and a few pieces of street food later found us outside the area with nothing to do. Christine suggested dinner in Itaewon, another foreigner must.

Itaewon is regarded as THE foreigner hangout area and has an amazing amount of shops, restaurants and bars catering to such clientele. It's the place to get real Indian food, Arabian cuisine, or Western pub fare before settling down with a few beers from all parts of the Western World. We all agreed on Tex-Mex since it's so rare and settled in at Panchos with a f
ew tequila drinks to comfort us against the slightly overpriced Mexican dishes. After dinner I took everyone to the Rocky Mountain Tavern, a Canadian pub just up the street from Panchos that I've been to a few times and whose beer selection I enjoyed. Since Nick is a Vancouver native and Karen is a Vancouver import I figured they would like a taste of home.

All of us being tired and the pub being packed, we stayed for only one drink before heading home. We said goodbye to Karen and Christine before boarding our subway at Seoul Station. On the hour long subway ride Nick found himself standing next to an absolutely ravishing Korean woman. After a few minutes of prolonged eye contact, Nick got her to talk and we all spent the rest of the time in conversation.

Finally reached Ansan Station, but because I didn't trust the bus (long story) Nick, Sarah and I decided to take a taxi to my place. We were soon home and spent the rest of the night talking and laughing. It was a good visit by good friends and I hope to have one like it soon!

Thursday, May 6, 2010

New Hobby...Haidong Gumdo!

I've been thinking about it for a while now. I've been curious for years but due to the lack of available opportunity I never pursued it. Now that I have the time I've decided to take up a rather physical hobby called Haidong Gumdo, or Korean sword fighting. It's similar to Japanese Kendo in that it uses a curved sword, but the Korean sword is a wider blade and the fighting focuses more on battle tactics and multiple enemy attacks rather than one on one.

I asked my co-teacher Kate to help me sign up with a local school, and after a week and a half she was able to help me out. So on Monday we went to the school and met with the master of the school, who surprisingly turned out to be a young woman about my age. She was very amiable and seemed quite excited to have me as her student. We agreed to start my training on Thursday.

So Thursday rolled around and I arrived 20 minutes early in an effort to impress upon my new master my desire to learn. She was not there (she was driving students home) so I waited alongside another student in the office. A few younger students arrived and were completely surprised to see a waegookin (foreigner) in their Dojang (school). One of the boys, dressed in a bright green shirt and possessing a cute slightly chubby physique, was most curious about me. My master arrived and she began fitting me out in my uniform, the pants of which turned out to be too long so she sent them out to be hemmed. While I waited for my uniform I caught out of the corner of my eye little Green Shirt taking a picture of me with his camera phone. So I turned, made the peace sign and smiled for him. He smiled and ran away quite pleased with himself.

I was assigned a wooden practice sword and the lesson began. We all stood at attention with our swords on the floor next to us and bowed first the Korean flag and then to our master. The hand gestures of the bow are very different. You put your right hand in front of your chest vertically and your left hand horizontal, palm down, at your waist before bowing. Then we did tons of stretching exercises. I had a difficult time with the jump rope because the rope was too short but I pushed myself on anyway. After exercises, my master had me sit at the back and watch her give out commands as the students followed. When their formal instruction was over, they all practiced individually their own forms they were working on (they were all different belt levels) while our master taught me the parts of the sword, one of the stances and some basic slashing movements. These I practiced for a long time though I kept my eye on some of the more advanced students to try and memorize more movements. I hate being a white belt...I'm back at square one, but I don't plan on being at this level for very long!!

After our practice we did more exercises where we broke up into two teams. When little Green Shirt saw which team I was doing to, he immediately jumped over next to me and smiled. He also showed me where to hang my wooden sword and tries to help me understand commands. Once in our teams we lined up facing each other and the first two opposing members did rock, paper, scissors to see which team would do the decided exercise. It was great fun and I felt like a part of the group as we cheered and grumbled after winning or losing. What I enjoyed was that my master joined and did the exercises too. She's very involved in everything we do rather than just shouting commands at us.

After the lesson my master asked me if I would stay for the next class. I was surprised but agreed. The next class was also the last of the day and there was only one student, a young girl name Yuri. We exercised and then practiced the sword a bit. Afterward my teacher told me we were going to work on concentration. She rolled out a mat, placed a stand in the middle, and lit a single candle before having us sit down. Yuri went first, holding her sword above the flame, then making a striking motion without touching the candle in an effort to extinguish the flame. It took her a few tries but she managed it. Then it was my turn. I held my sword above the candle, reached back and thrust my blade forward with a loud yell.

The flame remained.

So I tried twice more and was able to extinguish it. Then we used our fists. It took the other girl several tries to do it. I did it in one go, so I was quite proud of myself!!

I'm really looking forward to where this will take me physically and mentally. It's really nice to feel athletic again, and it's also good stress release after work. But that's another story...

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Tragedy and Surprising Warmth

On the morning of Tuesday the 27th, one of the students of Janggok High School took his own life by jumping out of his apartment window. We are still unsure of the cause, but it is believed he had troubles at home which stemmed from his parent's divorce. His gruesome suicide was surprising to us all because, though he was a shy, quiet boy, he was always smiling at school and carried himself with pleasant ease. We suspected nothing, but I think that if we had paid a little more attention we might have glimpsed the tip of his deep melancholy. That is what has been bothering me the most.

He was one of my students. I should have looked better at him. I of all people know what it's like to be passed over by everyone, especially teachers because of my own quiet nature. But how could I? I have 40 students per class, and 23 classes a week. That's nearly 1,000 students!! I don't even know what he looks like. If I saw a picture of him I would know him instantly. I remember faces far better than names.

For most of the week I was worried that it was another student of mine that I have bonded with a bit that had died. But I saw that student today in the stairwell, alive and well, and as he gave me a smiling hello I was filled with relief. But I worry...I still don't know the dead student's face. I don't know who he was. I only know that he was mine. Knowing that, and the fact that he was so desperate at such a young age, is enough to make me mourn him. He was only 15 years old.

Though suicide is alarmingly common in Korea, this was the first such death at Janggok High. Let's hope it is the first and last of its kind.

And yet there is happiness here. I am reminded every day how much I love the kids here and how much most of them seem to love me, especially the girls and the younger boys. Several students have gone out of their way to see me between classes, or scream at me excitedly in the hallways. Groups often endured the cold to sit with me outside after lunch, and in our little town they call out and talk to me on the streets.

There is indeed much happiness and I find myself happier than I have been in years.




Thursday, April 15, 2010

Building Relationships

I've been back in Korea for two months and though it's been busier than I could have imagined, it's also been so very wonderful!! Being in public school is a refreshing and rewarding job beyond comparison to the lowly, hellish hagwon job I held for so long. I know I made the right choice in aiming for public school, even if I'm not in the city I so very much desired. I can still see my friends on the weekends and a sometimes during the week if I don't mind riding the bus and subway for an hour and a half!

My current residence is Siheung, a small region in Gyeonggi-do, the province that surrounds the cities of Incheon and Seoul. I live in a small neighborhood called Janggok-dong. It's more of a little town really, but don't let the size fool you. It has plenty of restaurants, bars, noraebong (karaoke rooms) and coffee shops. It also has martial arts hagwons for such things as taekwondo and kumdo. I'm quite happy with it because there's just enough to do and I'm surrounded by countryside.

My school is nice sized with around 1,000 students. So far I have established a universal likability among the students, even those whom I don't directly teach. I have also proven my amiable personality to my Korean co-teachers, and the word has spread to those teachers who do not speak English that I am a good person and teacher, easy to get along with and talk to. I have especially developed a rapport with my main co-teacher, the one assigned to ensure my well-being and legal requirements, named Kate. She is fantastic!!!!! A short, sweet, honest person who exemplifies the definition of good breeding and propriety. I am also happy to find that she is not a complete prude, as once feared, but also enjoys the more crude side of private conversation. She is eager to learn such crude English from me, and I'm happy to report she is already and accomplished student!

I have been able to get the ball rolling towards a more personal relationship with many of my other co-teachers (I have 7 in total), but one in particular I was very nervous about. When I first met Mr. Park I was quite taken aback by his serious countenance and quite manner. I never saw him smile and he always looked grim. Being a naturally jolly person (at least I try to be...) I was immediately uncomfortable around him, and was terrified that my ease and joking with the students would be seen by him in a negative light. Within my first few weeks here Mr. Park took over my class and began to do rote memory work and speaking drills with the students, with myself seemingly transformed into a human parrot. The students were bored, as was I, and their lack of attention and constant falling asleep obviously irritated Mr. Park. It was during once such class that nearly every student's head was laying on the tables that Mr. Park, in dejected frustration, approached me saying, "I can do
nothing with them! The rest of class is yours!" And he sat down at the back of the class fuming.

Having 15 minutes left in the class, and suddenly given the burden of filling the time, I clapped my hands to rouse the students and they immediately sat up attentively. Luckily, I had over prepared materials so I showed them a short clip of the Simpsons (it was relevant to the lesson, I swear!) and had them do a class quiz. The day was saved and the class ended with the students actually alert rather than walking out of class like zombies.

Naturally, I was worried about how the rest of my time at the school would be like with Mr. Park. Then, suddenly, one day he approached me and talked kindly about how he wanted to run the classes. Two weeks his way, and two weeks my way. It was fair and I agreed. Since then we have communicated better and understood each other a little more. A breakthrough came when I made a joke in class the other week and he laughed himself silly over it. He also asked my help once or twice with a minor grammatical issue, and has requested for me to send him my power points at the beginning of the week so he can be up to speed with what I'm doing.

But today was much better!!! After class, Mr. Park approached me about helping him formulate a difficult question for the upcoming mid-term. We sat down together for 30 minutes and came up with an excellent question. We also had a small conversation in which I got to know him a bit more. I discovered that he is not a certified teacher yet, but is working on his degree. He is also a former travel agent and like myself enjoys traveling and talking about it. He even told me that he'd be happy to help me outside of school, and if I ever wanted to go to Seoul he would be happy to show me around if I wished. He finished by thanking me profusely for my help, to which I responded that I was always here for him and the other teachers if there was ever a question.

So...I've made great headway with Mr. Park!!!! Or rather, he's made great headway with me. I am not worried about my future classes with Mr. Park anymore. I'm establishing good relationships with those around me and I'm more optimistic about my future at this school that I was at the beginning...